Hatter

The owner, a returnee from Australia, has worked closely with the chef to develop two tasting menus that mirror the seasons. Bearing a strong European slant, the menus star first-rate produce from around the world, occasionally featuring the local condiments for which Fuzhou is famous, such as red wine lees and laver. The owner also doubles as the sommelier – ask him to pair the food with libations from the extensive wine list.

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