Wisca (Haizhu)

The chain started life as a stall, before this hugely popular outpost opened in 1996. The veteran crew follows ancient recipes to craft its reasonably priced Cantonese fare. The signature Ze Ze eels are swamp varieties served sizzling in a claypot; the fried mantis shrimp in spiced salt bursts with sweetness; and the house-made ice cream is a must. Only private room reservations are accepted. Otherwise, come early to beat the long wait at peak hours.

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