Substans

There’s something of a futuristic charm to this newer area of the city set between skyscrapers and residential buildings overlooking the port. Locate one of the latter, Pakhusene, step inside the lift and hit ‘F’ to reach the 11th floor; here you’ll find a small room where tables line the floor-to-ceiling windows to one side and the open kitchen occupies the other. The Chef’s Tasting Menu is made up of familiar Danish flavours, with dishes ranging from bread with brown shrimps and horseradish to red deer, plum and truffle, and finishing with the likes of Jerusalem artichokes, kefir and apple.

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