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Matan Zaken has thrown out the culinary rulebook! After globetrotting as the private chef to top fashion houses, with stints at Frenchie in London, the George V with Christian Le Squer and Saturne with Sven Chartier, the French-Israeli chef now host you in this astonishing vaulted cellar opposite the Palais Royal. In the convivial atmosphere created by having one enormous table laid for 20 guests, he proposes a Scandinavian-style set menu that features creative cuisine drawing on multiple influences (notably Japanese and Middle Eastern) and a variety of culinary techniques (low-temperature cooking, binchotan charcoal, fermentation, brine pickling etc). Think superb line-caught turbot with chanterelles, finished with a potent blackberry-sherry vinegar-Kampot pepper condiment and a fermented rye miso sauce. Very attentive service.

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