Substance

Matthias Marc, a chef who honed his skills in prestigious eateries (Le Saint-James in Bouliac, Le Meurice and Lasserre in Paris) and who also took part in France’s Top Chef TV show, serves a surprise menu that favours short supply chains and sticks close to the seasons, together with nods to his native Jura. Unorthodox, vibrant cooking with a creative streak and a weakness for vegetables, together with low-sugar desserts in a modern vein. A terrific list of mostly organic or natural wines. What’s not to like?

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