Bandol sur mer

Surprised to find MICHELIN-starred cuisine in this casual, laid-back restaurant with its "shabby chic" style? Granted, the small space – once home to a kebab shop – does look a little unkempt: in the dimly lit and very simple interior, the tables (without tablecloths) are tightly packed, and the individual furnishing details include vintage elements from the former East Germany. In the open kitchen, Andreas Saul shows remarkable passion, precision, originality and creativity. His cooking, which revolves around the region, proves to be pretty innovative. For instance, his "carrot charcuterie" is made using edible mould, as indeed is standard for making salami. They also like to do their own fermenting and smoking. You will detect influences from the Far East, too (eg kimchi). The menu is cleverly devised and rife with unique flavours. Two fish/meat courses can be added on to the five vegetarian courses. Good wine or alcohol-free drinks pairings. Conclusion: really high-level cuisine coupled with a pleasingly down-to-earth attitude.

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