Caino

Nestled in the heart of a charming Tuscan village, Caino is the gravitational centre of Maremma cuisine, with Valeria Piccini its finest interpreter: a skilful seeker of superior materials from a generous territory (which, along with a lovely vegetable garden, produces its own olive oil and some wines), later reimagining them without compromising an ounce of flavour—as in the delicious lamb ravioli or the pigeon stuffed with mashed potatoes and its entrails. For those craving a touch of the sea, there's an excellent risotto featuring cardoncelli mushrooms, lovage, and langoustines or amberjack with asparagus and almonds—always fresh fish cooked with Valeria's magical touch, paired with strictly seasonal ingredients. The dining area is ably supported by her son Andrea, keeper of a well-stocked wine cellar. In summer, Il Giardino di Caino opens on the terrace: a bistro where recipes are even more deeply rooted in ancient family traditions. Beautiful rooms upstairs ensure lingering enjoyment of Tuscan ambience.