Bulrush

It might appear quite modest, but this neighbourhood restaurant is a sweet spot, with an appealingly relaxed, cosy feel; sit downstairs to soak up the atmosphere from the on-view kitchen. Top-notch seasonal ingredients are either foraged or organic, and preserving and pickling play a key role on the well-balanced and deftly prepared tasting menu. An imaginative streak runs through the dishes, working wonders in elements like an umami-packed 'scallop Marmite'. The astutely chosen wine flight creates the perfect partnership.

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