Malagón Mercado y Taperia

Don't be fooled by this unassuming spot off King Street; Malagón is a find. It's a small space with an appealing old-world ambience, where shelves are stocked with wines and imported produce and an open kitchen offers a peek at the goings-on. Chef Juan Cassalett's tapas-focused, Spanish menu has a clear spark. Nothing is overcomplicated, and there is beauty in the precision in dishes like fried rabbit leg with a savory crème fraîche dipping sauce and la bomba de la Barceloneta, with diced pork stuffed inside mashed potato and then fried. It's all deceptively simple and deliciously surprising, as in the arros con cangrejo, a paella-style dish tossed with crab that delights with each bite. Spanish wines steal the spotlight on an interesting list.

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