Huso

Those who recall Chef Buddha Lo’s cozy back room on the Upper East Side will take delight in its stunning reincarnation. Like before, the entrance is a caviar shop and further in, find a restaurant that is fully realized with all the bells and whistles. Flowing white drapes, big windows and generously spaced tables cut an elegant, sophisticated figure in cool TriBeCa. Refined and polished, the tasting menu deploys caviar in a sensible manner alongside a host of finely calibrated sauces. Ora King salmon with cream and croutons makes for an astute start, as well as one particularly clever foie gras and brioche preparation. Big spenders can jump for the luxury supplements, but such expense is not essential to see the full talents of this kitchen.

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