Nōksu

Eating underground in the subway system may not sound appealing, but that hasn't stopped Chef Dae Kim. In the heart of Koreatown at Herald Square behind a code-locked door, find a black marble counter that stretches the length of the room. Every chef is armed with tweezers to manage and primp gorgeous dishes that are largely contemporary in their design. Seafood is a serious focus with the likes of crab, fluke, clams, and mackerel. The restaurant’s signature is obvious once you spot the squab dry aging in a fridge. Against the backdrop of 80s hits playing overhead, a chef holds the bird up and repeatedly ladles hot oil over it in the style of Peking duck. It’s a defining reminder that in New York City, anything can happen anywhere.

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