Expendio de Maíz

With only four communal tables, no sign, and no menu, this cash-only, sidewalk operation in Roma Norte offers a surprising experience that prioritizes food over fuss. In place of typical creature comforts, find a bustling kitchen that cooks and cooks until diners tap out. It is anyone’s guess as to what’s coming but know that heirloom corn nixtamalized and ground in house serves as the foundation for many of the dishes. Tortillas, sopes, and huaraches alike are molded and griddled to order and then dressed in a dazzling variety of seasonal ingredients and sauces. Tableside salsas pack lightning bolts of heat and enliven every course. Be warned: Reservations are not accepted, and an on-site waitlist gets long in a hurry.

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